Day 10 Thursday 3 March
I woke at 5:30, and got my new saddle set up properly. It felt good,
almost exactly the same as my old one. Just in case, though, I strapped
my old saddle to my front harness so I can go back if I need to.
We then packed up and went out for breakfast. I had the "master
breakfast", the biggest meal on the menu, as well as a hot chocolate.
The meal had bacon, eggs, bread, a cooked tomato, a sausage filled with
cheese and a hash brown. Urgh...not what I'd normally eat. I felt like
the fat was dripping down my throat afterwards.
We had decided to stay a bit longer in Wanganui and see if we couldn't
get the things we needed, including visiting a Spark store to hopefully
sort out Greg's phone.
After breakfast we went back to the bike shop we had been in the
previous evening. Luckily my front light was there, so I got it back.
Yay!
I also bought a new pocket knife cum multi tool and a stuff sack to
replace the ones I'd lost. The multi tool is pretty useless, but Ruth is
sending me a new one to collect in Wellington so it only has to last
until then.
Greg's phone couldn't be fixed, so he bought a new one with a new
number. We then headed back to the backpackers and got ready to leave.
We left at about 10:30, having had breakfast about three hours earlier, and I was already hungry again.
Our trip started with a ride up the Drury Hill elevator. It was fun
riding down the tunnel. The elevator itself was antique, and had someone
running it, collecting our $2 and discussing the history of the
elevator. It was fun, and the easiest 100 metre climb I've ever done on
the bike.
From there, we headed out of town, leaving (as Greg so eloquently put
it) the "armpit of the north island". The roads were hilly almost right
from the start, and never let up.
After about 15 km we reached Fordel, where there was a shop. Great, I
thought, a chance for a second breakfast, but when we went inside they
only had candy and soft drinks, so we pressed on, hoping to find another
shop somewhere along the way.
It was 63 km from Wanganui to Hunterville via the TA course, and it was
getting hot. I began to get really hungry, and a little light headed. I
ate two muesli bars to keep me going, but I just felt like I was running
on empty -- the cooked breakfast hadn't done anything for me at all.
As I was riding past a patch of bush, a voice called out Hello. It was a
cycle tourist from Napier; he had just been eating lunch in the shade. I
rode with him into Hunterville, thinking of food and milkshakes all the
while.
We finally reached Hunterville at about 2:30, and I immediately ordered
two milkshakes, a burger and a huge custard square. The two milkshakes
didn't last long, and I was still thirsty so I bought a bottle of iced
coffee. That finally satisfied me.
Greg and I then headed off again. The course followed SH 1 for about 5
km, before nipping off onto some quiet country roads again. After a few
km the road became unsealed and we had a hilly stretch of about 20 km
on the gravel.
From there, the road undulated before climbing some more. I saw a
kingfisher up close for the first time in my life: it flew just a couple
of metres away, and stayed with me for a few seconds before turning and
flying away. I say it's amazing blue-green back, and didn't recognise
it as a kingfisher until it turned and I could see its beak. It was a
beautiful bird.
Greg and I then headed off again. The course followed SH 1 for about 5
km, before nipping off onto some quiet country roads again. After a few
km the road became unsealed and we had a hilly stretch of about 20 km
on the gravel.
From there, the road undulated before climbing some more. I saw a
kingfisher up close for the first time in my life: it flew just a couple
of metres away, and stayed with me for a few seconds before turning and
flying away. I say it's amazing blue-green back, and didn't recognise
it as a kingfisher until it turned and I could see its beak. It was a
beautiful bird.
The road climbed and climbed, then crossed about 3-4 huge river valleys
where the road fell and then climbed about 200 metres each time. Finally
it began to descend, and we made good time on the final few km into
Apiti.
The pub in Apiti had shut down, and there weren't any other shops, but
as we arrived a woman said they had a few treats we could buy. She had
just bought the old petrol station and she and her partner were in the
process of renovating it. They had chippies, bars, and drinks, and we
bought plenty of each.
We camped in a paddock behind the hall just 100 metres off the course. Two other riders were also there. We had dinner of flavoured rice (two different packets), salami, carrot
and onion (Greg had carried these last two all day). It was hilariously
difficult cutting onion and carrot with a cheap knife with a 2 cm blade.
Dave Ryan, one of the other riders, took pity on me and lent my a big knife.
We gave him some of our cooked meal in exchange, then finished it off
with a carton of coconut water and a packet of chippies.
Once I was in the tent, I discovered that my battery pack wasn't there.
Then I realised I'd left it, along with my USB charger, back at the
backpackers in Wanganui. Damn -- so much for having my gear finally
organised!
As I typed up my blog, I got peckish again so I nibbled at a Snickers
bar I had purchased down the road. Incredibly sweet, but yummy. How
decadent: eating chocolate in my tiny tent typing up my notes for the
day.
Unfortunately, without my battery I have no way of charging my Garmin.
But the cue sheets have been so good that I can just follow them and
guess the distances. I'll buy a new charger and battery pack in
Palmerston North, and get the old one sent home.
It was a fantastic day's riding. We had covered 126 km and climbed over
1,800 metres through some amazingly beautiful country. Even better, my
new saddle felt really comfortable, no problems other than the usual
aches and pains of being on a bike seat for ten hours a day. No new hot
spots or saddle sores, which is fantastic.
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