Weather forecast is good for the next few days.
All going well, Erik should reach the Colorado State Border tomorrow. Perhaps 2 days after that, he will be riding up the highest pass of the Tour Divide Route, and getting to Del Norte. Soon the racers from the North will be crossing the trail.
Erik is camped just above the squggle at the top. |
We rode along the road to El Rito, which was 25 km away. The road climbed gently, and it was relatively easy going. We saw another bull snake, a small one this time.
We covered the first 8 km in just 25 minutes; the same distance would have taken us two and a half hours yesterday. By 9 AM the temperature was already 30 degrees. It was hotter because we were lower and in more desert-like conditions, with cactuses growing beside the road.
The temperature had reached 40 degrees by 10:30.
By the time we stopped for our lunch break at 10:30, we had covered 32 km and climbed 1,600 feet.
There were plenty of trees, but for some reason we saw no birds or animals, not even squirrels.
By the time we stopped for our lunch break at 10:30, we had covered 32 km and climbed 1,600 feet.
There were plenty of trees, but for some reason we saw no birds or animals, not even squirrels.
The
road continued to climb until about 40 km, where we dropped into a
valley with a fast descent. At 48 km, we reached the settlement of
Vallecitos, which was a real eye-opener.
Derelict-looking houses that people still lived in, complete poverty. A woman gave us water, and her family looked extremely poor. They were living in squalor: was dog-shit all around, and the kids just playing with the mangy-looking dogs. They didn't look like they had electricity. One little girl had a disfigured face, as if she'd been bitten by a dog.
Derelict-looking houses that people still lived in, complete poverty. A woman gave us water, and her family looked extremely poor. They were living in squalor: was dog-shit all around, and the kids just playing with the mangy-looking dogs. They didn't look like they had electricity. One little girl had a disfigured face, as if she'd been bitten by a dog.
The
road became sealed again after Vallecitos. We rode past a rich-looking
homestead, then a post office, complete with a handicapped car park, in
the middle of nowhere. A few km further on we passed an abandoned
sawmill.
The road suddenly headed up a steep and hot climb, before dropping down to another small township called Cañon Plaza. There we found the snack stand featured in the Ride the Divide movie. There was nobody there, but a sign said "honk for service". Gay called out "honk" and a woman came out and opened up for us.
The road suddenly headed up a steep and hot climb, before dropping down to another small township called Cañon Plaza. There we found the snack stand featured in the Ride the Divide movie. There was nobody there, but a sign said "honk for service". Gay called out "honk" and a woman came out and opened up for us.
After all the riding, it was fantastic to sit in a chair eating ice-cream and drinking Power-aid. I also stocked up on a few more food items.
The
woman who runs it, Sylvia, was featured in the movie. She said the
snack stand started when her children, aged 10 and 8, started selling
chippies and other snacks to people going into the forest to fish and
hunt, and it continued from there. That was over 20 years ago. Only in
recent years have cyclists started using it. She keeps track of the
racers on the Internet, so she knows when they're likely to be passing
through.
We
continued on, and immediately faced another steep climb with
switchbacks on a dirt road. I was feeling quite tired by this stage, and
was looking forward to reaching the camp site.
We
found it a few km on from the top of the switchbacks. We had covered a
total of 62 km, with 4,000 feet of climbing. We're sleeping tonight at
about 8,400 feet, and tomorrow we'll climb to over 10,000 feet. We've only got about 130 km to go until we get to the Colorado border.
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